China's Mines

Feeling from a Mineralogical Trip -
China, July 2004

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In Changsa Surface travel can be described as  controlled chaos (not very different I have to say  from Indonesia).    Constant masses of cars, motorbikes, and people on bicycles are moving in all directions, coming and going with abandon.    In the cities, all this occurs surprisingly smoothly, with very little traffic control (stoplights, signs, etc.) and virtually no crashes or accidents.    Construction zones on the immaculate cross-country expressways ("interstates") are just simple lane closures with an absolute minimum of any warnings or barricades, and function remarkably.

Changsa, Daily Life

Changsa,

 Snakes ready for Snake Soup

 Daily Life in Changsa Streets

Changsa

 the modern stadium and sport palace

The cities where cleanly modern and modern and magnificent buildings stand up out of the surrounding older dull gray concrete tenements. Yards  are open 24 hrs a day and work is going on without any stop also during the night hours with the support of lamps.

Out of the capital the Hunan countryside is characterized by terraced rice patties, brick, two-story, open-faced buildings, and the quintessential farmers and laborers carrying the wooden pole across their shoulders with two baskets or buckets on each end.   The weather itself was no the best. Very warm (36-37 Celsius degrees), very humid and no wind...... If you can avoid July and  August for traveling in Hunan is better; may or October are the best months (they told us).

  But, stop with  travelers impressions.    What about minerals, the mineral  market in Changsha and Guilin , and the mines?

In Changsa, there's a small side street and a square in downtown so called:   "The Hunan Mineral Market" . This area  is comprised of  store-front shops with people and dealers  selling minerals and jade jewelry.    This place is where most of the familiar Chinese dealers seen at American and European mineral shows met. We can walk from door to door and see examples of essentially all the minerals for which China is famous.    No  price tags are available, and  quality can vary widely .    The Changsa mineral market  is the source, however, of most minerals seen on the western and American market.   

Changsa downtown,

"The Mineral Market" Road

Changsa downtown

the "Mineral Market" Square

Other middlemen, most (but not all) of them with much better quality pieces, are situated nearby in apartment buildings and tenements, and these individuals  have some of the finest crystals.    We were, at first, quite surprised by the high prices being asked (everything is always priced in US dollars or Euro) but  competition between dealers has driven prices to these levels.    The competition has extended all the way back to the sources at the mines, such that even the miners ask, and routinely receive, relatively high prices as well.

  In a country where a miner  can live off wages of $30  per month, a  decent mineral specimen priced at $350 at the mine is obviously highly disproportionate.   And, the high prices for minerals extends to almost all the known Chinese places. The only hope you may have is that you are there in the right 

We saw vast quantities of things such as the hematite/quartz specimens from Nanningshan, the Spessartine/smoky quartz aggregates from Tongbei, the green fluorites from Xianghualin/Xianghuapu, the Antimonites from Wunin, few Kermesites from Lengshuijiang,  beautiful Insesite from Fengjiashan, beautiful orpiments from Shimen (few realgar), and remarkable material from Yagoanxiang Mine. Among this Scheelite on Quartz, Ferberite, Fluorite and Stannite. We were also  shown first a fresh antimonites on xlsed calcite which had just recently been collected from the Lengshuijiang  mine. Beautiful material but difficult to transport due to its fragility. 

 Changsa mineral market

 taking notes in a dealer shop

Changsa, mineral market

a beautiful Antimonite specimen

 Changsa,

mineral market

 Large Antimonite from Wunin

 Changsa,

mineral market

 A dealer storage with some good

Green Fluorites 

All other there will be at least 40 dealers in Changsa and looking at the storages of all of them and picking the right items definitely takes time. If you want to do a decent analysis of what the market offer you have to spend at least 3-4 days in Changsa.

So, wandering the streets and the mineral market of Changsha can be pleasant and rewarding (also  expensive) , but a trip "to the Chinese  mines" is where the excitement really begins.

   It's not simple  arranging trips or gaining access to mines in China, since most of them are still government owned and controlled.   It is possible, however, given certain minimum preparations and planning.   Such was the case for us and thanks to  the cooperation of a friend we managed to have the  opportunity to go to the famous Shimen Realgar  mine.    This vein arsenic deposit has gained large notoriety among worldwide collectors for its variety of worldwide top class  well-crystallized realgar, orpiments and calcite.

Thanks to our friend and  enlisting the assistance of some Chinese people in Changsa who spoke a comprehensible English, a car and driver were scheduled,  and visit with  entry to the mine coordinated.   It was a five  hour drive along 360  km from Changsa to the mine. Luckily at least on  half of the trip we can drive on a high class newly built highway from Chagnsa to Chengde  City. Where the highway ended   you have to drive on conventional asphalt road. After another 1h 30 min of drive we passed Shimen town and we headed  north in the valley of a large  river. After 50 Km (1 hour drive)  along a narrow asphalt road we reached the Realgar mine. Here the mine owner and some miners were waiting for us. They first invited us for a real "Chinese" lunch before entering into the mine. All the environment was extremely friendly and relaxed.

     On the way to Shimen Mine,

Stop for a tea

in Chengde

Lunch with mine owners

 at  Shimen Mine

 

Lunch at  Shimen Mine

 

First we had chicken ? soup followed by the main  course that comprises  frogs, chicken,  beans, eggplants and pimentos, accompanied by  beer and rice with egg.  We also had some other dishes difficult to describe. However all we tested had a good taste.  Plates of greasy vegetables with various types of spicy, small meat also were available, with a large bowl of the ubiquitous steamed white rice mixed with egg.   Only chopsticks were available here, but, as they, "When in China,...." you have to behave like a Chinese.   Certainly, not a lot of  westerners have made it to this particular location, and it was likely an honor to be offered such treatment.  

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